How To Take Great Photos
Click here to learn how to take photos like a pro
In this article I’ll discuss more advanced tips and techniques on how to take great photos with your digital camera. This article covers technical considerations to master your output. For a particular scenario of photography please use the navigational panel to access the corresponding article.
1. Histogram
The histogram is a very powerful tool if used wisely.
One thing to remember is in digital photography, just like film photography, exposure is based on the square law where 1=2.
Adding 1 f stop will double the amount of light to hit the sensor or the film. But let’s focus on the sensor as we are discussing about digital photography especially digital SLR.
The histogram represents 255 levels of details, from 0 to 255 (or 0 to 28).
A perfect exposure does not always give you a bell shape histogram.
A perfect in camera interpreted exposure will give you a bell shape histogram.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
This is why:
As a reflected light meter, the built in camera meter sees everything as a 18% medium grey. What this means is, for example, when you meter for a black wall the image will turn up grey same as if you meter for a white wall, your image will also turn out grey.
It is a simple but important thing to bear in mind when you want accurate metering and exposure.
The use of exposure compensation will help to determine the accurate color.
We will discuss about the zone system in another article to explain the different between what your camera sees and what you want it to see.
So basically, in digital photography, when you record an image (take a photo) the ideal would be to record the maximum of details within the dynamic range of your sensor (more on dynamic range in this article). The best way to record the most details is to have a bell shape, slightly on the right of your histogram.
Tip: If your histogram is too much on the left, you are Under-exposing and loosing details in the shadow. Compensate by dialing in some positive exposure compensation (also known as EV exposure value).
If your histogram is too much on the right, and you have clipping, you are over-exposing and details in your highlights are blown. There is no way to recover for any details in this area. You will need to dial in some negative exposure compensation to recover the details.
Use your histogram as often as possible. If you are shooting on a location where the light doesn’t change dramatically lock in your exposure using manual mode for consistent results.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
Golden rule: If your camera can show you the histogram, use it.
In digital photography, if there is one thing that you want to be absolutely familiar with then it would be the histogram. The histogram will help you control the correct exposure of your pictures.
The histogram represents 256 levels of details, from 0 on the left (shadow area) to 256 on the right (highlight).
You will check that you don’t have “clipping” parts of the histogram on either sides.
If you histogram is clipping on the left, you’ll loose details in the shadows, your photo will end up having lots of noise.
If your histogram is clipping on the right, your details in the highlight are burnt out and cannot be recovered.
In digital photography, it is recommended to expose for the highlight (expose to the right or ETTR).
2. Prefer Aperture Priority Mode over Shutter Speed Priority
Aperture priority mode will give you more control than Shutter speed priority mode.
The main reason is you control the aperture within the limit of your lens from widest to narrowest aperture and the camera will pick a shutter speed somewhere between 1/8000th of a second to 30 seconds. The selected shutter speed will depend on your camera model and the ISO setting.
When using Shutter Speed Priority, your camera will have to deal with ISO and aperture value. While some cameras offer auto ISO settings, the aperture is still a physical limitation.
If you pick a too slow shutter speed and if the camera cannot close the aperture enough you will end up with an over-exposed image, and vice-versa.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
3. Use the “Burst Mode”
The burst mode is the feature whereby the camera can take several shots per second.
This mode is almost present on every Digital-SLR camera. This mode is very useful for “action shots” where your subject is moving and where you need to give a sense of motion in your photography.
I use this mode a lot during wedding photography, especially during the ceremony.
For consumer digital cameras, this mode is known as sport mode in pre-programmed scene mode.
Alongside with the burst mode I use continuous tracking focus. The idea with burst mode is to take as many shots as required of the scene at a time. We are shooting with digital cameras and there is virtually no additional cost in having more than not enough in focus images.
While I trust my auto focus tracking system, there are conditions where it is not accurate enough for my needs. For example in low light churches, the bride walking down the aisle is a crucial and must have moment, I usually use M mode to have a consistent exposure, burst mode with AF tracking so I can have several images of the “action” and to cover for the out of focus images.
Make sure when you shoot bursts that you have enough buffer to cover candid shots.
Tip: High ISO decreases your dynamic range
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
4. Use a tripod
The rule of thumb regarding shutter speed to avoid camera shake (camera movement during the time of exposure) is 1/focal length. For example for a 200 mm lens your minimum speed to avoid camera shake is 1/200th of a second. Some manufacturers now offers IS (Canon’s Image Stabilization) or VR (Nikon’s Vibration Reduction) lenses that allows you to handhold the camera and lens for slower shutter speed than “recommended”.
Now, because different shutter speed will give you different effects, you might want to override this and you are certainly in right to.
For landscape photographers but also for composite photographers, the tripod is the natural extension of your camera. It’s your best friend. You may also consider a beanbag for other shooting situations though.
The tripod will allow you to use any shutter speed you’d like to and especially if you shoot landscape where the use of filters and small apertures will require long exposures. Infra Red filters will stop down your exposures by 2 f stops and you will need to compensate with either shutter speed or ISO settings.
Keep in mind when you shoot at slow shutter speed (under 1/60s) a steady tripod is your best friend.
There are two types of blur:
- camera shake is caused by photographer not holding the camera steady when the photo is taken
- motion blur is caused by the subject in motion (e.g. children running)
While motion blur may be a wanted effect, you will look to minimize camera shake.
You might also want to try practicing with mirror lock up.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
5. Shoot in RAW
With modern Digital-SLR cameras you have the choice between having the camera to process the images for you (JPEG mode) or capturing the scene using the most of your sensor and edit the image later on in post processing. In the last case you want to shoot in RAW mode.
Canon’s RAW files are recorded with .CR2 extension (Canon RAW file version 2,) and Nikon’s RAW file are recorded with .NEF extension (Nikon Electronic Format). The RAW file will roughly weights the size of your sensor (i.e. 12 MB file size for a 12 Mega pixel sensor). This is in 12 bits.
Some higher end camera will allow you to capture images in 16 bit mode, which are roughly 4 times more details than in 12 bit mode. (12 bit = 212 and 16 bit = 216).
The benefit of RAW files is that you capture everything, good or bad. You then need to discard what doesn’t belong to the image. By comparison, a JEG file is 8 bit and a RAW file between 12 and 14 bits. As a reminder, square law is exponential.
When you deal with mixed or difficult lighting conditions (mix color temperatures) it is best to shoot in RAW if your camera allows you to do so.
It will be easier to correct color temperatures in post process from a RAW image than from a JPEG image.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
6. Flash
When using dedicated flash, just remember that flash exposure and scene exposure are separate and the camera will not take in account the exposure of your flash in the overall exposure.
In high contrast situations don’t forget to use fill in flash technique for exposure compensation.
Click to learn how to take photos like a pro
If you are looking for an easy to read and practical guide that will help you take great photos in every situation then I strongly recommend you check out Amy’s Digital Photography Success guide.
Whether you are a beginner or a more seasoned photographer this guide, full of tips you can apply right away, will beautifully transform your photos. I personally endorse Amy’s guide.
Click here to download your copy of Amy’s Digital Photography Success
Comments on this entry are closed.